Outside the tourist season, which is to say most of the year, life here is quiet and slow. People have time to do unnecessary but nice things, such as decorate their postboxes. And me? I have written about a couple whose arguments in public are photographed by Japanese tourists and about a family in the 1950s who travel around in a hearse and about rain, and am currently in discussions with a man who can walk on the ceiling. Coming home next week will be a culture shock.